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« Déha » : De la sève du palmier au Vin de palme

Vin|Seve de palme

Nous sommes ici chez les sœurs moniales Clarisses de « Aképé », un petit village situé à environ 45 minutes du centre-ville de Lomé, non loin de la frontière du Ghana.

Cette période est assez particulière car le centre est en pleine production de vin de palme. Je me suis donc mise dans la peau d’une bonne paysanne, essayant de percer le mystère de cette boisson prisée par beaucoup d’entre nous. Sur place, des dizaines de palmiers à huile abattus et à vue d’œil, un récipient délicatement posé en dessous de chaque arbre.

 Il m’a fallu 10 petites secondes pour comprendre ce qui se passait.

J’ai donc fait la connaissance Monsieur GOZA (responsable chargé de la récolte), qui a gentiment accepté de me prendre comme stagiaire pour quelques heures et qui m’a donc expliqué deux-trois trucs sur le vin de palme.

Le vin de palme est obtenu grâce à la fermentation de la sève du palmier, l’élément dont je vais le plus parler d’ailleurs. Pour obtenir cette sève, le palmier est abattu et une entaille y est faite à un endroit spécifique vers le sommet du tronc. Dans cette entaille est placé une sorte d’entonnoir, faite des feuilles du palmier, dont s’échappe la sève goutte par goutte.               

Le liquide fraîchement obtenu est très doux (pas aigre) et très sucré. Il a une saveur assez particulière et une texture plutôt fluide mais très légèrement onctueuse. Sa couleur est d’un blanc légèrement translucide et le taux d’alcool y est minime.

A cette étape elle possède de nombreuses vertus comme favoriser une bonne circulation sanguine, une bonne production de sperme chez les hommes et de lait maternelle chez la femme allaitante, une amélioration la vision,  etc... Elle est aussi très efficace contre les dermatoses (Pour la petite histoire, le vin de palme est l’une des méthodes traditionnelles par lesquelles ma grand-mère m’a débarrassée en quelques jours de ma varicelle quand j’étais toute petite ; pareil pour tous mes cousins et cousines).

Une fois le récipient en dessous du palmier plein, Celui-ci est retiré pour transvaser le liquide et est replacé ensuite. Un palmier de taille moyenne peut donner environ 5 à 6 litres de sève par jour et ceci pendant environ un mois et demi ou même deux. Ce n’est qu’après cette période que le palmier “meurt” totalement.

Par contre, ce jus a la faculté de se fermenter très rapidement dès qu’il entre contact avec l’air ambiant et encore plus quand il est exposé au rayon du soleil, d’où l’obtention du vin de palme qui est donc une boisson alcoolisée. Il est très utilisé dans les  célébrations traditionnelles notamment les mariages ou pour souhaiter la bienvenue à des invités etc…  

Après environ une semaine  de fermentation à température ambiante, le vin devient généralement trop aigre pour être bu. Il devient donc du vinaigre et généralement la fermentation est prolongée pour préparer au bout de deux semaines environ, une liqueur forte communément appelée « Sodabi » (au Togo), dont on aura l’occasion de parler aussi très prochainement.

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